Gloves, mittens and fingerless mitts are all the rage in
charms these days! Fingerless mitts can
be some of the fastest and easiest projects out there. They can be made from fine sock yarn, plump
bulky wool or many yarns in between!
Ranging from the simple to the sublime, let’s take a look at
construction methods for fingerless mitts.
The simplest fingerless mitts are rectangles knitted the
length of the mitt, and knitted as wide as the wearer’s hand. This flat rectangle is seamed along the side
from the bottom up to where the thumb goes, skipping about an inch for the
thumb and then seamed to the top. This
style of fingerless mitts works best is ribbing or garter stitch as both are
stretchy and will help provide shape to the mitts.
Free patterns for super-simple mitts include Easy Fingerless Mitts and the Purl Soho Ribbed Arm Warmers
Fingerless mitts lend themselves well to being knitted in
the round, since a tube can be fitted better to the hands than a flat
rectangle. However hands are not a
perfect cylinder. Our pesky opposable
thumbs keep getting in the way of a nice, neat tubular glove. Since we need those thumbs for knitting,
we’ll have to craft our gloves to accommodate them. This is where gussets come in.
A gusset is a shaping device in garment making, created by
adding a wedge of fabric that provides extra space for movement or shape. Unlike sewing
where an additional chunk of fabric must be sewn in, knitting gives crafters
the option to add extra stitches as we go.
That means fingerless mitts can be shaped without seaming – how cool is
that?
If you look at a pair of fingerless gloves with the thumb
facing towards you, you will see a “V” shape where the thumb goes. The bottom of the V starts at the bottom of
the palm / top of the wrist, and it increases to the bottom of the thumb. The V is your gusset.
The way to create a gusset is to pick a stitch where your
thumb will go, and make increases on either side of it. However human palms are not puffy round
balls, but gentle curves. This means you
do not want to increase every round. If
you do, you will end up with a gusset that is too wide and too short. When wearing a gusset that is too wide and
too short the thumb area will be baggy (and, incidentally, cold! Chilly air gets in the spaces!). So what you will want to do is increase every
2nd or 3rd round.
How often you increase will depend on your yarn weight and your pattern,
so read the pattern carefully!
Many patterns will simply say ‘increase.’ If you’re trepidatious about this whole
gusset thing, choose a straightforward pattern and a yarn you love and make
whatever increases you are comfortable with.
You will get the correct shaping and fit for your gloves with this
method. But if you want a neat,
structural V shape we have to go one step higher in complexity and not just
work increases, but paired increases.
The increases that work best for gussets are ones that can
be worked without a ‘hole’ and ones that ‘lean.’ Since you are creating a V shape, you will
want one set of increases to slant towards the right, and the other set to lean
towards the left.
We have two likely suspects for paired, leaning increases:
make 1 left (M1L) / make 1 right (M1R); and the left lifted increase (LLI) /
right lifted increase (RLI). Many patterns will indicate a particular
increase to use depending on the designer’s preference; however once you understand
how gussets are formed with paired increases these two are frequently
interchangeable.
Fortunately these increases do exactly what it sounds like
they do. Make 1 left and the left lifted
increase both lean towards the left; make 1 right and the right lifted
increases both lean to the right. So
when you are knitting in the round you will want to start the gusset with a
right leaning increase, knit across the gusset stitches and end with a left
leaning increase. So, let’s take a look
at how to make them.
Make 1 left and make 1 right are slightly more common. They
are formed by scooping up the yarn in between two stitches and knitting it so
it twists into a nice, tight stitch. If
you knit it without twisting the stitch it will look more like a yarn over and
leave a little hole.
The Twist collective has some great picture-tutorials HERE
Or you can watch it in action:
The left lifted and right lifted increases involve lifting a
previously worked stitch back onto the needles and working it again. The biggest difficulty in this one is knowing
which stitch to lift!
Again, the Twist collective has a picture tutorial for this
technique HERE
And you can watch it in action:
When your gusset is done, you will take the stitches you
worked in the gusset off the needles and hold them on stitch holders or waste
yarn. The rest of the stitches are
rejoined into the same happy tube you started with, but now there is space for
your thumb to go! When you are all done
you will pick the thumb stitches back up on to the needles and knit them into a
teeny tiny tube for the thumb.
Now that we know how to make gussets, let’s look at some free patterns!
Bulky Weight:
Worsted Weight:
DK Weight:
Sport Weight:
Fingering Weight:
And for you overachievers... The following mitts have partial fingers, which we all know is a gateway drug to full out gloves!
Go forth and knit for fun, for warmth and for the glory of Slytherin!!
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